Where the sea meets the skyline

XIAMEN, CHINA: In the southeast corner of China, perched gracefully along the edge of the Taiwan Strait, lies a city that seems to have mastered the art of balance. Xiamen is a place where the sea hugs the shore like an old friend, and glass towers shimmer above gently lapping waves. It is a coastal gem offering travellers a serene escape with a modern twist.

For those seeking a more relaxed form of tourism, far from the rush of mega-metropolises and tourist-saturated destinations, Xiamen delivers an experience that is both calming and captivating. Its magic lies in its harmony between land and sea, history and progress, old-world charm and sleek modernity.

From the moment one arrives in Xiamen, the presence of the sea is inescapable. The city is built on an island, with several smaller islands orbiting nearby, and this intimate relationship with the ocean defines its very spirit. The breeze is ever-present, softening the heat with the scent of salt and the whisper of waves.

Xiamen’s coastline curves gracefully around its urban core. Along Huandao Road, literally meaning “Island Ring Road”, palm trees sway beside bike paths and jogging trails that run for miles along the water’s edge. The sea isn’t just something you glimpse from a distance; it’s woven into daily life, a calming backdrop of the city's rhythm.

Even Xiamen’s skyline seems designed to reflect the water it overlooks. Modern apartment towers and luxury high-rises arch alongside the coast, their mirrored windows catching the glint of sunlight on the waves.

Nowhere is this more striking than near the Shimao Straits Tower, two sleek buildings shaped like twin sails, rising directly from the waterfront as if poised to glide into the sea.

These architectural marvels do not compete with the coastline; they complement it. From up high, balconies open to sweeping views of ocean blue, with cargo ships slowly drifting by and fishing boats dotting the horizon like tiny specks of tradition in a modern world.

Despite its polished infrastructure and commercial energy, Xiamen has retained a rare sense of calm. The streets are clean, the pace is relaxed, and the skyline never feels suffocating. The city seems to breathe, exhaling space, breeze, and beauty.

Across the bay, just a short ferry ride from the main island, lies the storybook isle of Gulangyu. With no cars allowed and colonial-era architecture in every direction, Gulangyu feels like a dreamy footnote from another era.

Narrow stone lanes wind through European-style villas and shaded courtyards, once home to foreign traders and musicians. Today, it is a haven for artists, boutique hotel owners, and the kind of traveller who prefers to wander rather than race through checklists.

The melody of piano music, for which Gulangyu is famous, often drifts through the alleys. It is no surprise this peaceful island is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. From its viewpoints, one can see Xiamen’s skyline rising across the water, a graceful reminder of how close, and yet how far, the modern world can feel.

Back in the city, history lives quietly among the glass and steel. The ancient Nanputuo Temple, nestled at the base of Wulao Mountain, continues to attract pilgrims and sightseers alike. Here, incense curls into the sky while Buddhist chants echo gently off the temple walls. Climbing the rail behind the temple rewards visitors with a panoramic view, the sea glinting in the distance, the city stretching out beneath the trees.

In the heart of Xiamen, the Zhongshan Road Pedestrian Street pulses with energy. Red lanterns swing above food stalls selling crispy oyster omelettes, peanut soup, and the city’s beloved shacha noodles, a spicy seafood noodle dish unique to Fujian Province. The street feels festive yet never overwhelming, an ideal place for an evening walk under the soft glow of street lamps.

Nearby, the Eighth Market (Ba Shi) captures the local spirit in full colour. Here, the sounds of fishmongers, the flash of silver-scaled seafood, and the scent of grilled squid invite all the senses into the dance of daily life.

Xiamen is not just about tradition; it is also a canvas for creativity.

In the Shapowei Art Zone, once an old fishing port, warehouses have been transformed into studios, cafes, and concept stores. Murals sprawl across building walls, and street art gives voice to a young, expressive spirit growing within the city.

Even nature feels curated here. The Xiamen Botanical Garden, tucked into the hills, is a peaceful retreat of cactus gardens, waterfalls, and forested trails. Locals come to picnic, sketch, or simply rest in the hush of bamboo groves, where the only sounds are bird calls and distant laughter.

Perhaps what sets Xiamen apart is its ability to offer luxury without pressure, wonder without overwhelm. It doesn’t demand to be seen; it gently invites you to look closer. Here, one can sit at a seaside café and watch cargo ships drift by as kites soar in the sky above.