Some pristine heritage sites around Semolale and Mabolwe

ABEL ABEDNICO MABUSE
Correspondent | Friday March 15, 2013 00:00

There are also scenic gorges, granite kopjes and unique water holes that are locally known as Maghopo in Sebirwa. This paper discusses some of the outstanding heritage sites that were visited by the writer and colleagues in February 2010. The purpose of this visit was to survey heritage sites with potential for tourism development in the area. The exercise formed part of an ongoing project aimed at assisting local communities to benefit economically from natural and cultural resources found in their areas. My responsibility was to lead the team in exploration of these sites and make an assessment of their needs.

The expedition was quite interesting due to a number of reasons. The team itself was made up of different characters. Two trusted drivers made up of the reserved Neo Modisaotsile and the well-known extrovert, Rre Direlang, made our journey quite interesting. Ricky Moseki, the team's informed historian, never failed to impress us with his calculated stories detailing the origins and names of each of the villages that we passed on our way. 

Our experienced photographer, Letso Mhale, added much substance to the team. His long tenure in the Botswana National Museum had allowed him much travel into most areas we were visiting. We relied heavily on his extensive experience and ability to communicate effectively with elders whenever we got lost or requested some help. Kgosietsile Lemson and John Abbey, fresh graduates from university with degrees in Zoology and Geology added a lot of dimension to the team with their seemingly endless questions.The last member of the team was a botanist by the name Marumo Marumo. He never stopped amazing us with his deep knowledge of trees and unmet desire for government to engage in wanton destruction of all invasive plant species.

Our first destination in the area was Semolale where there are some hilltop ruins that were occupied between AD 1500 and 1800 by the Bakalanga people during the state of Butua. I was aware that since the area is now occupied by Babirwa, it was necessary to consider playing naive when it came to general discussion of these sites.Over the years, I have mustered this useful technique. It allows me to play safe and allow the local people to provide me as much information as possible about their heritage. Although largely criticised at times by my colleagues for time wasting, this approach allows the local people to have a voice in interpretation of their sites.With all these in my mind, we arrived at Semolale Kgotla much to the anticipation of a fruitful expedition. Permission granted, our first destination was Semolale Hill. Before our departure to the hill, I reminded my team once more of the existence of several prehistoric settlements in the area. These were strategically located along the Shashe and Motloutse river basins to allow cattle herding and crop farming Semolale Ruins are located on a hill approximately 1km north west of Semolale village.

Two stonewalls can be found on top of this hill. Semolale ruin has two main stone features. These include a large stonewall measuring over 30 metres long that probably made a courtyard. This wall has collapsed in most parts and this makes it difficult to identify the stone walling technique that was used during its construction. The northern stonewall is a small circular enclosure with an extensive midden characterised by pottery and animal bones. Oral traditions collected in Semolale suggest that the hill is used by the people of Semolale and its surroundings rain-making shrine. This view was raised by Kgosi Madema during our survey of the area. The place also has some historical value to the Babirwa as it is here that the remains of Kgosi Selamolela Malema Makhura are laid to rest.  The location of the grave on the foot of this rain-making site shows that the late chief played a spiritual role in the society of Semolale. After exploring Semolale ruins, we visited Mziligomo Ruins. These are located on a 350-metre long flat-topped hill to the east of Semolale village.

The most prominent feature of the site is a stone enclosure made from locally acquired rocks. This enclosure is made up of a collapsed wall with several abutting walls and one structure that appear like a collapsed raised foundation near a tree. To the south are large middens where pottery, animal bones and some shells are exposed by burrowing animals. Most of the pottery is undecorated even though occasional sherds decorated with comb stamping have been found. Further south, there is a large occupational area with a huge middens and a small stonewall. We do not know for sure whether this area was occupied contemporaneously with the central ruin or not. Judging from the layout of similar ruins such as Dombonsetje to the east of Mabolwe, we concluded that this area probably formed part of a separate area where the wives of the chief resided.

Standing on the edge of this flat-topped hill and facing east, one is treated to a panoramic view made up of distant hills, occasional kopjes and dark green trees growing along stream. While feasting our eyes, we were told that it is possible to hear sounds of invisible cattle and people on top of this hill at night. From Mziligomo, the team proceeded to the village of Mabolwe and explored Sekgobokgobo Hills. These are granite kopjes on which some Sotho Tswana stonewalls can be found. The site is located about 4km north of the village of Mabolwe and is popularly known as a rain-making shrine for the people of Mabolwe. Short stonewalls made up of angular granite stones measuring about 60 cm high are found on the site together with thick walled historic pottery and few animal bones. The low density of artefacts found on the site and the type of these stonewalls suggest that these hills served as a refuge site during the Mfecane period.

Mabolwe is one of the few remaining villages in eastern Botswana where cultural practices are still preserved and considered important by the local community. Women in the village have formed a cultural group called Sekgobokgobo, which exists to ensure preservation of cultural practices such as dances, spirituality and traditional knowledge systems.They exploit locally available materials such as palm tree leaves and make a wide range of crafts such as baskets, traditional brooms and mats. They also extract palm juice to make alcohol, which they sell in the village. Several men in the village also make traditional chairs, tables, and household utensils using the locally available plants like mosokaphala, mophane, motswiri and mohudiri. These cultural practices are important in the sense that they can be promoted to attract tourists who are likely to visit the area and buy these crafts.