From Cuito to Johannesburg
Thalefang Charles | Friday April 15, 2016 12:14
Driving at twilight is generally hard because visibility is bad. What is even worse, however, is arriving into an unknown, congested dark city at twilight with chaotic motorists, motorcyclists, cyclists and pedestrians all ducking one another in a constant commotion at noisy high speeds and abrupt stops through roads littered with deep crators for potholes. But if you add, driving a heavy right-hand vehicle on a right-hand road (read the wrong side of the road) with headlights covered in mud and your guide speaking a language you barely understand, then you would be close to what I went through when I drove into the city of Cuito in Angola.
It is day three of a weeklong drive through Angola, Namibia, Botswana and South Africa by the land-based expedition team of the National Geographic that is exploring the upper catchment of the Okavango Delta.
The road trip begins from the source lake of Cuanavale River – one of the major tributaries of the Cuito River that forms the Okavango River when it meets the Kubango in Namibia. We start at the Cuanavale River source lake with a convoy of 11 off-road vehicles. We are led by the anti-landmine vehicle – a Land Rover from the Halo Trust and behind the wheel is a short but tough-looking ex-UNITA rebel soldier called Amandio (they even nicknamed Cumonteri who I heard was a badass UNITA commander) - to make sure that we do not stray into lurking bombs. We are travelling on some of the world’s most dangerous roads littered with live minefields.
Day two and the Halo Trust lead vehicle stops in the middle of the road next to red warning signs saying ‘perigo mina’ (Portuguese for danger mines). The small-matter of the landmines becomes real. We are reminded that we are driving on some of the world’s most dangerous terrain. The Halo Trust says there were over 10 million land mines planted in Angola during the wars.
Although four agencies are busy demining, many estimate that 60 percent of the minefields are still out there. The roads around the Cuito source lake are so dangerous that the locals had to make new tracks to avoid landmines.
This is the area that is around the borders of Moxico and Cuando-Cubango provinces and it is the most deadly part of Angola. Remnants of the war along the roads are ever-present reminders. As we approach major towns and villages there are many wrecks of trucks, helicopters, tanks rusting in the jungle forests. I wish to stop and photograph them. Touch them. Inspect these machines of war and hopefully understand the conflict from them, but Amandio in the leading vehicle does not want to stop. Besides the roads, there are huge dug-out holes which we are told are apparently bunkers that were used to hide tanks during the war.
From Manhungo village we follow the railway. The road is still only a 4X4 track with some badly eroded patches. At some point it is completely washed away and threatens to flip over our vehicles, but these Land Rovers and Toyota Land Cruisers were designed for these roads.
A few kilometres after the small town of Cuemba, we start to experience car problems. Okavango Wilderness Project’s research vehicle – an old second hand Land Rover from Botswana Defence Force (BDF) that has travelled from Cape Town to Cuito, loses its fan belt. Luckily our convoy has a mechanic and the belt is quickly replaced.
On a clear straight mud road, the lead vehicle suddenly veers off the road and disappears into the tall green grass on the sides. It is like a scene from a science-fiction film. We slam on our brakes wondering what has happened to the vehicle. The mechanic’s diagnosis says the steering rod has broken and fixing it will not be easy. The only solution is to tow the vehicle.
And that is how I ended up leading the convoy with a Portuguese speaking navigator on the way to the city of Kuito. Despite the chaotic drive into Kuito, we safely arrive and a day later part ways with the Halo Trust escort.
The road to Menogue is tarred, but with lots of steep valleys. We are getting back to civilisation and there are roadblocks manned by security officers with AK-47. Our convoy of dirty vehicles with Botswana and South African number plates naturally attracts attention from the security agents. But our paperwork – permits from the governors of Moxico and Cuando-Cubango to drive cars in their provinces – are in order. We also have Alex Paullin who is the only team member who can speak a bit of Portuguese.
After two nights at a town of Menongue we head down south. The tarred road ends after crossing the Cubango River and it is a long dirt road at some point with bad corrugation. The Land Cruisers were designed for this and still cruise on. The road follows the beautiful Cubango River until the border at Katwitwi.
The Angolan border patrol are strict. We are thoroughly searched. In our vehicles are science specimens. We are lawfully carrying snakes, fish, bats, plants, spiders and many others specimens being transported to research centres in South Africa. We first pull out the snakes and the border officials jump out in fear shouting, “Cobra!”. They do not want to search anymore, but just want the permits that we gladly present.
The Namibian border crossing at Katwitwi is slow, unproductive and irritating.
We waste about two hours just for our three Land Cruisers with three drivers and no passengers, to be allowed in the country.
Crossing into Namibia, everything feels completely different. The road is smooth tar with road signs – it feels like another country. We are now driving on the left side (read the right side of the road) and the Caprivi Strip is beautiful.
After one night in Rundu at Kaosis Lodge along the Kubango River we head out to Maun through the Mohembo Border. We stop by the Okavango River before getting into Botswana. This will be the last time we see the river before its waters reach the Okavango Delta. It is flooding season for the river and the water level is high. We pass by some Namibian women and children washing clothes in the river.
The border crossing into Botswana is smooth and fast. It feels good to be back on home soil. There is a special feeling that I normally get when after a long time I meet someone and they greet me saying, “Dumela”. I lose my sense of defence and alertness and surrender myself to freedom – a feeling of arriving home.
But the stay in Botswana is temporary. After one night in Maun, we briefly stop by the Boteti River before Mopipi. This is a milestone in the trip because we have officially driven through the entire Okavango River basin. Boteti River is currently dry but the water from the rains that showered us in Cuito will reach here this coming winter and pour into Lake Xau.
Two days later is Easter Sunday, and once again, I am in a completely different world driving alone in Johannesburg. I am confidently going to a place I have never been before.
I realise I am miles away from Cuito both figuratively and literally when the female voice in the vehicle GPS says: “You have arrived at your destination”.