Into the heart of the Delta on Xugana Island
Lesedi Mkhutshwa | Wednesday November 15, 2023 10:21
We landed in the centre of the stunning Okavango Delta after 45 frightening minutes of an epic private charter flight operated by Safari Air out of Maun International Airport.
Even though I was terrified, I was able to get the most amazing and distinctive aerial perspective of the Okavango Delta’s islands and canals during the flight.
After landing on the airstrip, our media team met the guide who identified himself as ‘Kaizer’. Born Kereng Setshego, he talked about the precautions to take when travelling by boat, which is the primary transport on the island. The team headed to the Xugana Island Lodge, 10 minutes away and featuring numerous channels; the open lagoon is both stunning and entrancing. The lodge is located on a shaded edge of the island. Xugana Island Lodge is run by Desert and Delta Safari a company which operates superb camps and lodges in different tourist destinations.
The island’s staff welcome was extraordinary, with everyone grinning and singing in the tongue most common to the area, as well as Setswana.
As one worker distributed wet, fresh facecloths for refreshment, one of the hotel managers, Onkabile Baile, introduced herself and gave us a quick overview of the lovely lodge. “This resort only holds 16 guests in thatch and reed private viewing chalets that face the lagoon.
“The elephants are kept away from the chalets by an electric fence. “You can encounter creatures like monkeys during the day, and for safety reasons, it is also advised that one be accompanied by a worker at night when moving around the lodge.”
She went on to say that Xugana Island Lodge offers complete inclusion, meaning that all meals, drinks, and guided activities are covered by the package.
Having settled in, I had to have the inevitable and painful discussion of how they coped during COVID-19. The pandemic crippled the country’s tourism sector and many operators were forced to take tough actions to keep their businesses afloat.
Operations in the wilds of the tourism heartland in the northwest had to close their doors for months, during which the flora and fauna began taking over, swallowing up the luxurious camps and assets built there.
Baile said business had returned to normal and Xugana was operating as usual, having gone through the pandemic. “Business is back to normal where we are busy from May to December unlike during the COVID-19 pandemic where we had no domestic nor international tourists visiting the camp,” the ever-smiling manager explained.
“We did, however, have to close the camp at one point during COVID-19.” Following our brief interactions, we were led to the chalets to rest because our next activity—the boat cruise—would start in an hour. Before touring the stunning chalets, we were taken on a short tour that included the open viewing deck and an outdoor dining space with views of the large, pristine body of water.
The open-sided thatched lounge, bar, and dining rooms are situated at the rear of the structure beneath the canopy of African mangosteen and ebony trees.
In the afternoon after 4pm, we took the boat cruise from Xugana lagoon through several canals that led directly to the Moanachira, one of the largest rivers in the Okavango Delta.
The water route eventually joined the Xakanaxa channel, which flows to the Khwai River and terminates in the Mababe Depression. At one point cruising to Palm Island, we came dangerously close to three irate hippos blocking our path and forcing us to turn around. All along the way, we saw numerous elephants, bushbucks, and warthogs. We also saw the rare swamp-dwelling antelope known as Sitatunga as well as a reed frog.
A special thanks goes out to our guide, Kaizer, a true gentleman who shared his wealth of expertise and understanding about not just animals and birds, but also the functioning of the entire natural system.
Those two hours on the water were the most lovely and therapeutic thing ever, with fresh air, breathtaking views and an unforgettable sunset. For the first time in a very long while, boating on the water alone made me feel very relaxed, content, and comfortable. We later returned to Xugana for dinner where the employees’ services were of the highest calibre.
All of the staff at the camp provided excellent service, treating each visitor as though they were the only one in the world. To top it all off, the media team enjoyed a delicious meal on a fantastic floating deck overlooking the lagoon.
From the floating deck, hippos were visible nearby and while it was somewhat exciting, at some point it started to get scary. In the morning, we took the canoe (mokoro) exploration excursion, before getting ready for our flight back to Maun at noon. Parting ways with the island was an extremely moving event, but I’m grateful for one of the most magnificent lifetime experiences.