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Thursday, 2 September 2010   |   Issue: Vol.26 No.175  |  Friday, 20 November 2009
Features
My 'fright' to Okavango with Norwegian Prince

Despite considerable hours of flying, this writer will never get used to the idea of being thousands of feet up in the air, in places where in the past only angels dared to tread.


 
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When my editor assigned me to cover the tour of the Goodwill Ambassador of the United Nations Development Programme  (UNDP), last Wednesday Crown Prince Haakon of Norway to the Okavango, I was elated but then the thought of having to fly to my destination soon killed my appetite.

It always fascinates me when people gladly hug members of their families and friends when they are about to board a plane because as for me joy is the last thing that comes to my mind when I am about to take to the skies. I have always had acrophobia (fear of heights) and I find anything related to heights, flying included, intimidating to say the least. One can safely say that my fear of heights has led to another, the fear of flying, which is known as aviatophobia in medical circles.

As we take the morning flight to Maun, I ask the airhostess if I could sit next to Mmegi photographer Kabo Mpaetona so that I do not cause any discomfort to a stranger with my imminent nervousness. I silently say a prayer putting my life in the hands of the Lord. One thing that people do not know about this writer is that whenever I am forced to fly, I just surrender everything to God since I have a feeling of helplessness that keeps gnawing at my guts. Something always tells me that I am going to perish in an air crash whenever I am compelled to fly and the stories that I have read about air disasters do not help the situation.

While Air Botswana (AB) does not have any records of air crashes, nobody could ever be sure of what will happen on the day they fly. After all, accidents, are both unplanned and unpredictable.

As the plane takes off, I start to become uneasy though I try by all means to hide it from my neighbour. I pull out an in-flight magazine and start reading through it, which gives me temporary relief.

When I check out Mpaetona, he looks at ease and the smile of contentment on his face really annoys me.

"I love speed so much and I wish there was a car that could go at a top speed like an aeroplane," Mpaetona says to my annoyance.

"Look here man, if there is such car, it will be extremely dangerous and many souls will perish in it," I retorted.

While I am busy shifting in total discomfort, my colleague is  enjoying the  view below. I constantly keep on checking my watch.

"When are we going to arrive?" I ask Mpaetona who is clearly enjoying himself.

Without flinching an eye he tells me that he enjoys longer flights and I realise that I am alone in my misery.

The flight seems to take forever and the aircraft we are using comes from an older Air Botswana fleet and at times the ride is a bit bumpy.

Whenever there is turbulence, I am convinced that it is the end of me! When we finally land at Maun airport, I just feel like kissing the ground and thanking God for His protection, but I somehow restrain myself because I do not want to look like a religious fanatic.

When our hosts, the UNDP people tell us that we are going to undertake a three-hour drive to Shakawe I welcome the news gladly.  To me driving will always be a better option as opposed to flying.

After finishing our business in the steaming hot tourist town of Maun, we hop into a government SUV and I sit next to my chatty colleague Tirelo Ditshipi from the Midweek Sun/Guardian.

For the first time in a long time I can smile genuinely as we talk about general issues. Although the journey is bumpy because of the poorly tarred road leading to Shakawe, I am at ease. The SUV is air-conditioned, spacious and comfortable. As a cherry on top, the driver plays classic rock and ballads on the radio, so Ditshipi and I sing along.

After a long drive, we arrive at a 'fishing lodge' by the banks of the Okavango Delta and I take time to refresh. There is nothing much to write home about the lodge because the accommodation is standard. No television set, no radio and no network. This simply means we do not know what is happening in the outside world. It is clear that the lodge was set up with tourists in mind because it has a bush 'feel' to it.

After taking a long bath, I decide to have an early sleep and thank God I do not dream of my 'terrible' flight to Maun.

The following morning, as we gather for breakfast, Marx Garekwe of the UNDP informs us that after the Crown Prince had met with the people of the neighbouring Samochima fishery we will fly to Moremi Game Reserve where he (the Prince) was going to see the portapools where weevils that are used to combat the free-floating salvinia molesta (correct) in the Okavango are bred.

I am tempted to ask if there is an alternative way of getting there but common sense tells me that the Prince had a tight schedule so time was of essence.

Imagine the Crown Prince of Norway and his entourage waiting for hours for the arrival of a Mmegi journalist, who was afraid of flying!

As we head to Shakawe airstrip, somebody warns the gaggle of journalists that we should expect a bumpy ride, as it is windy.

Our pilot is the 25-year-old Austrian Ludwig Reiter of Mack Air Botswana.

"Do you think this boy has enough experience to fly us over the delta",  somebody asks and this does not help my uneasiness.

However, Reiter proves to be a perfect gentleman, as he freely interacts with us as he welcomes us aboard his Cessna 208B Grand Caravan. The Caravan has been described as an 'extremely versatile aircraft in African bush conditions."

Our flight to Xakanaxa Lodge in the Moremi Game Reserve takes less than an hour and it is as bumpy as predicted but the pilot, together with his 'navigator' Garekwe comfort us with small talk.

As we land in a small airstrip in the belly of the delta, the first question I ask is, "Are we going to do any more flying today?"

"Yes but it will be just a 25-minute flight to Maun," Garekwe replies.

I am relieved that it would be a short flight, not that I would be looking forward to it.
Perhaps at the point, this writer should mention that Moremi Game Reserve is one of the most beautiful places on earth  with its breathing-taking flora and fauna. It is literally gaming with all sorts of animals including the legendary "Big Five'. 

I watch enchanted by the beauty of nature around me and for a moment, I forget about the horror of flying.

We arrive at the exquisite Xakanaxa Lodge and  the 'magical effect' continues as the beauty of our land continues to unfold just in front of our eyes.

Towards the end of the visit, we take a cruise in the nearby lagoon where the prince observes the almost vanquished salvinia molesta (correct). On our way back to the lodge, we spot  a number  marabou stork females with their chicks.  An amazing sight indeed!

As we head back to Xakanaxa Lodge  to catch our flight back to Maun, I have put my 'flying troubles'  aside and not surprisingly so because my visit to the lodge  was the highlight of my Okavango Delta tour.

Soon I am back to the horrific reality of having to fly again. We hop into the Caravan and Reiter warns us of a bumpy ride. I say a silent prayer and comfort myself with the fact that it would be a short flight. Since I am extremely exhausted and the flight is short, I do not feel the journey is bumpy. As we arrive in Maun, I could not help celebrating that I was left with only one flight and that was the flight back home to Gaborone!

The last day  of our tour proves  hectic in the morning as we visit the Harry Oppenheimer  Okavango Research Centre together with his entourage. The Prince and some international journalists leave soon after taking different flights.

Mpaetona, Ditshipi and I idle around in Maun waiting for  the 4 pm flight to Gaborone. Part of me wants to escape the extreme heat of the town  and part of me shrivels at the thought of flying.

Aboard the Air Botswana aircraft which looks relatively new, I sit next to a male stranger and for sometime I keep to myself as I am exhausted.

I must admit that at this point fatigue has taken over and I do not care about any possible air crashes as all I wanted was to be back home.

After some time, I start talking with the gentleman next to me. He informs me that his job  compels  him to fly a lot on weekly basis  and tells me about some of his near-death experiences.

Strangely this does not gives me any shivers up and down my spine. As we land at Sir Seretse Khama International Airport, I feel like someone who has overcome his fear of flying or am I just lying to myself?

I guess the question will be answered when I am bound to catch my next flight to God-knows-where.

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